Avocados have transcended mere culinary status to become a cultural phenomenon deeply entrenched in American food culture. From guacamole at the Super Bowl, to the proliferation of avocado toast on brunch menus across the nation, these creamy fruits have permeated virtually every aspect of modern dining.

Yet, the story of avocados stretches far beyond their contemporary popularity. Avocados, now an iconic symbol of American culinary culture, trace their roots back to ancient civilizations in Mesoamerica. However, their journey to prominence took a significant turn with their introduction to California in the early 20th century, leading to a revolution in avocado cultivation and consumption. As avocados flourished in California, another region emerged as a powerhouse in avocado production: Michoacán, Mexico. This fertile land, nestled amidst the mountains, became the epicenter of avocado cultivation, supplying a significant portion of the world’s supply. From its ancient origins to its modern-day dominance, the story of avocados is a testament to the enduring appeal and global impact of this beloved fruit.

Avocados in Ancient Mesoamerica

The history of avocados is deeply intertwined with the rich tapestry of ancient Mesoamerican civilizations that cultivated and revered them for their nutritional value. Mayans and Aztecs alike believed avocados symbolized fertility and abundance, and included the fruit in their diet and rituals. Early Spanish explorers were quick to recognize its culinary potential, with one 16th century description remarking: “like butter and is of marvelous flavor, so good and pleasing to the palate that it is a marvelous thing”.

Avocados come to California

While the avocados of antiquity differed from those we enjoy today, it was the ingenuity of California growers that propelled the fruit into modern prominence. In the early 20th century, avocados found their way to California, where they would undergo a transformative journey thanks to the pioneering efforts of growers like Rudolph Hass. The development of the Hass avocado variety revolutionized the industry, offering consumers a fruit with a buttery texture and resilient skin that facilitated easier transportation and extended shelf life. This innovation expanded the availability of avocados and paved the way for consumer adoption in America.

However, the path to consumption in the United States was not without its challenges. In 1915, California growers and producers created “The California Avocado Growers Exchange”, a member-owned cooperative organization with the goal to grow the industry and educate consumers. The fruit formally known as “alligator pears” was largely unknown outside of California. The California Avocado Grower’s Exchange decided to lean into its cultural roots and petition for a name change to “avocado”, derived from the Aztec name “ahuacacuahatl”. In addition, early perceptions of avocados as high in fat and calories posed obstacles to their acceptance among health-conscious consumers; but concerted efforts by industry stakeholders, aided by scientific research and savvy marketing campaigns, avocados gradually shed their negative image and emerged as a symbol of healthy eating. As that awareness spread, fueled by social media and endorsements in health publications, avocado consumption surged from 1.51 pounds to an average of 8 pounds per person by 2018 — and growing — according to the latest USDA reports.

However, despite California’s significant contribution to avocado production, demand has consistently outpaced domestic supply, leading the United States to rely heavily on imports from Mexico, the world’s largest producer. Michoacán — Mexico’s primary avocado-growing region — boasts ideal climatic conditions and sustainable farming practices that ensure year-round production. As avocado production grew in the US, importing avocados from Mexico was banned to protect their crops from possible infestation. Producers in Mexico, specifically in Michoacán, worked with the U.S. Animal Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) to adapt their practices to meet standards. In 1997, the ban was partially lifted, and avocados started to flow into the US. Other Mexican states followed suit, and in 2022, Jalisco was approved to start exportation.

Today, Michoacán stands as the epicenter of avocado production, accounting for a significant portion of Mexico’s avocado exports and supplying markets around the world. The region’s avocado orchards stretch across vast land expanses, encompassing small family-owned farms and large-scale commercial operations. From the picturesque highlands of Uruapan to the fertile valleys of Tancítaro, avocado trees blanket the landscape, their lush green foliage a testament to Michoacán’s status as the “Avocado Capital of the World.”

Yet, Michoacán’s success in avocado production has not come without challenges. The region has had to contend with issues such as water scarcity, soil erosion, and the threat of pests and diseases. However, through innovation, investment in technology, and sustainable farming practices, Michoacán has continued to thrive, maintaining its position as a global leader in avocado production.

As we look to the future, the avocado industry is poised for further innovation and growth. From advancements in cultivation techniques, to the introduction of new, high-yielding varieties, like the Luna UCR, that enhances freshness and increases pollination efficiency.

In essence, the journey of avocados from ancient staple to modern marvel embodies the dynamic interplay of culture, commerce, and innovation. As consumers continue to embrace this fruit, its enduring appeal serves as a testament to its remarkable versatility and enduring legacy in the world of food.

Almudena Piza Barroso

Almudena Piza Barroso is a food scholar and writer on the history of the avocado industry in Mexico and the United States. She holds degrees in Food Studies and Culinary Arts and is based in Mexico, working on agricultural trade research.